RobiNZ Personal Blog

Telefon Bay, Antarctic farewells | Antarctic Mission Log 11

We left Whalers Bay and repositioned to Telefon Bay, further into Port Foster, for the last landing of the trip. It is another snow-free volcanic gravel beach, also geothermally active with obvious steam rising. That may have helped with one activity planned, an Antarctic polar plunge swim off the beach! Telefon Bay was covered in poached krill which the Brown Skua loved. They are large birds (~160 cm wingspan, ~2 kg), about 20% larger than the Black-back Gulls seen in New Zealand. Seems they are not much-admired birds, opportunist scavengers and take penguin chicks (although eat fish too), but I... Read more →

Antarctic Aerodrome no Deception | Antarctic Mission Log 10

While we slept Ortelius headed North through the Ferguson Channel and crossed the Bransfield Strait, heading for Deception Island. It is a flooded caldera; a collapsed volcanic cone 15 km in diameter, rising to 539 m above sea level. Named due to its hidden interior harbour, Port Foster, accessed via a narrow entrance. A sheltered anchorage is a rare thing in this part of the world, so it was a busy sealing/whaling and, later, science and exploration base. Approaching Deception Island and Neptune's Bellows; the entry named for the gusting winds passing through it which must have been 'interesting' in... Read more →

Station Almirante Brown heights | Antarctic Mission Log 09

This was nearly my big mistake day... After the morning base visit, and a big lunch, I was dozing in the cabin when this departure was announced. Seriously considered staying onboard for the afternoon as a bit weary and it was cold out for once (1°C). Then I wandered up to the upper deck lounge, looked out and saw this... After dashing back to the cabin and getting ready, although now familiar still a bit of an ordeal of layering, I just made it on one of the last Zodiacs of the initial disembarkation. As with other bases, some did... Read more →

Frozen obstacles and Chilean welcomes | Antarctic Mission Log 08

While I was fast asleep, tired after some long days even given my normal 5-6 hours sleep, the clouds we saw descend near midnight had come down to sea level. The campers had returned at the planned time, 5:00am, with tales (over breakfast) of breaking down camp and returning to the ship in near white out conditions. It was still very calm but the temperature had dropped to a more Antarctic expectation 0°c. Even Lockie would struggle to see far in this weather. We are scheduled to sail along Lemaire Channel and circumnavigate Booth Island. It's a small (~8km long)... Read more →

Finding Lockie | Antarctic Mission Log 07

After getting back onboard from camping there was time for a warm shower, and to sort out some laundry, before heading to breakfast. While we ate Ortelius was on the move again heading for our first base visit of the trip, and the commute there was far from mundane! We sailed along the Neumayer Channel, named for Georg von Neumayer (1826-1909, a German geophysicist), which separates Anvers Island from Wiencke and Doumer Islands, in the Palmer Archipelago. It's a long narrow channel, 26 km x 2.4 km, with spectacular mountainous islands on either side. Captivating from the panoramic vistas down... Read more →

Neko, Danco, Pingu, BBQ? | Antarctic Mission Log 05

After a perfect first day on the Peninsular we awoke to find similar weather on the second. It was still eerily calm and clear below a high cloud cover. I remember (from the 1990s) a book* of stunning Antarctic acrylic/pencil/watercolours works by NZ Artist David Barker and it seems we woke up in one. The clear water and muted light, thanks to that cloud, created a watercolour palette, absent of harsh sun glare, as we glided into the first landing spot of the day. My only rostered activity was not until after dinner, but there was plenty to see and... Read more →

Kayaking, a landing and endless evening | Antarctic Mission Log 04

The morning began, in what had already become a routine, with a wake-up announcement from 'Clouds' (Claudia) outlining the days activities and our first excursion stop: Orne Harbour. The weather was calm, clear (around us), and surprisingly warm (9°c) but a high cloud base with patches of sun trying to break through in the distance made for stunning ever changing vistas. From our anchorage Spigot Peak, on continental Antarctica, dominated and its summit was the target for some! Seemingly soon, but actually 30 minutes after Clouds, came Siegi's world famous melodic announcement; 'Good Morning, Good Morning, Good Morning; the dining... Read more →

Drake Passage Crossing | Antarctic Mission Log 03

After casting off, from Ushuaia, we headed East along Beagle Channel. It's about 73NM (135km) before you turn South across Drake Passage to the Antarctic Peninsular. Ortelius cruises at around 10.5Kn (19km/h) so we would not enter Drake Passage until sometime overnight. The channel was very calm and the forecast for Drake Passage promising, but nothing can be guaranteed once heading South of Cape Horn. Although not prone to motion sickness (never had it coastal sailing, inter-island ferry or flying) this was my first open ocean voyage. I had mild OTC 'Sea-Legs' and prescription Ondansetron motion sickness medications. Following the... Read more →

Ushuaia & Departure | Antarctic Mission Log 02

I got the hotel shuttle to Buenos Aires Ezeiza airport reasonably early; add to that efficient (again) airport processing and I was early to the (remote bus type) gate lounge. It proved to be a mistake as there was little in the way of food air-side, one overworked cafe, and the lounge was crowded with few seats free. This was the older terminal rather than the new international one I arrived at. After a bit of wandering I found a place to sit, on the floor against the wall. Wasn’t alone, killing time, and ended up chatting to a group... Read more →

Getting to Argentina | Antarctic Mission Log 01

I covered the ‘why’ of this trip to Argentina and Antarctica in an earlier (2018) blog post so this series covers the trip, and after, based on my notes and referencing a superb detailed voyage log written by our Expedition Crew. The ‘Antarctic Mission’ title is a reference to two films from the 1980s, their soundtracks part of my life since then, and a significant inspiration for this journey. I was scheduled to arrive in Ushuaia, to join Dr Karl’s Expedition Cruise, on November 23 2019. I began considering this trip mid-2018, booking late October 2018, so had plenty of... Read more →