RobiNZ Personal Blog

Remembering “Higher Trails”, a great Kiwi song

Graeme Hill played “Higher Trails”, by John Hanlon today and will be speaking to him tomorrow (Sun 30 Aug) on Radio Live. I associate it with the New Zealand documentary “Off the Edge” which was released in 1976. That means I was only ten but the tune, lyrics and epic visuals of hang gliders spiralling around the Southern Alps were permanently etched in my memory.

It still looks amazing especially when you consider it was shot on film (no mini-digital video then) with limited resources/support. I’d love to buy this on DVD, but not sure if was ever released, and think It was a crime John was completely overlooked when the APRA top 100 New Zealand songs was compiled.

In my head

When I first visited Aoraki Mt Cook, on the Adventure South 2004 cycle trip, “Higher Trails” was the soundtrack running in my head. I can’t remember but suspect it inspired this photo.

Damn the Dam

Another song of John’s became an anthem for one of New Zealand’s biggest conservation battles which spanned the 60s and early 70s. “Damn the Dam” [cried the fantail] was adopted by the campaign against the Manapouri Hydro Dam scheme. The government planned a dam to raise the level of Lake Manapouri (below) 30 metres, merging it with nearby Lake Te Anau, to provide power to an aluminium smelter.

That would have flooded a vast area of pristine bush including this fantails home (below). In the end Norm Kirk’s Labour Government imposed lake level restrictions and a modified scheme saving much of this habitat. Although I was a child at the time it’s impossible to visit Manapouri and without remembering “Damn the Dam” and the work of the conservationist that saved it.

I found “Damn the Dam” on YouTube, although this isn’t the original video. Sadly it appears we may need John Hanlon to write a new conservation anthem, thanks to Gerry Brownlee.

The empty Otago Rail Trail is pretty busy!

I think it's great that the New Zealand Cycleway Project is going ahead with National and the Greens support. What amazed me, although have probably read it elsewhere & forgotten, is that 80,000 rode the Central Otago Rail Trail last year.

I thought it was a pretty remote (both pretty and remote) empty place although it was quite late in the season when we did it!

Greens Join Cycleway Project

It's like cycling naked without it...

If anyone looked at the current banner, or full image below, they may wonder about the strange looking fellow with even stranger attire. I call the white thing by my glasses "The Bas" as purchased it from "Bas the guide" on an Adventure South West Coast trip. Since then it's become an essential cycling accessory.

It's not just a rear view mirror, it's the best cycle rear view mirror I've ever used. Sturdy all metal construction and spectacle mount means there is no vibration. It's also easy to adjust and far less likely to be damaged than a helmet or bar mount mirror. The mirror isn't that big, so doesn't dominate forward view but moving your head slightly scans the road behind better than any fixed mirror.

You may wonder why this excitement over a bit of wire and acrylic mirror but on several occasions this thing has literally saved my life. In both cases I was on a busy road, keeping left, and watched large trucks graze by, one eye on the curb the other in the mirror, within centimetres of my shoulder. I suspect in one case it was just ignorance, the other because they were squeezed by traffic in the lane beside them. I'm pretty certain in both cases a normal glance behind would have meant a real possibility of going under the wheels. Having the mirror allowed me to see what was happening, do what I could to avoid it and stay on the bike.

If you're in New Zealand the only place I've seen them sold is Adventure South and theirs are tweaked for New Zealand's Left Hand Drive/Cycling; which is why mine is upside down in the San Francisco shot. Those overseas should search for a "Bicycle Peddler of Greeley Colorado Take A Look Mirror".

For me, cycling without it would be like cycling naked. As for the rest of the attire, I'll let Karl du Fresne defend that!

Karl du Fresne: In defence of lycra and other unspeakable cycling clobber
Being a cyclist myself, I naturally bridled at this. But it’s not the first time I’ve heard a non-cyclist ridicule the strange outfits bike riders wear, so I’ve taken it upon myself to offer some sort of explanation....

A Porsche 911 Carrera S Cabriolet in the Catlins?

I was reading CAR U.K. and thought this Porsche advert looked familiar. Could it be the Catlins, Southland, New Zealand as seen in this photo I took in 2005. Compare the hills and fore shore, seems familiar? It wouldn't be the first time my Adventure South travels and Porsche adverts have coincided.

 

911 Carrera S Cabriolet - 911 Overview - Models - Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG

Top Gear in Vietnam?

Having recently been there, this episode looks like it will be fascinating. Come on Prime, don't make me wait forever or find an alternate source to view it!

AUSmotive.com » More on Top Gear in Vietnam

Vietnam Cycle Tour 2008 with Adventure South

Since 2003, about this time of year, I’ve headed south to join a cycle tour with Adventure South. This meant meeting up with a group of cyclists, most not Kiwis, for a leisurely ride between sumptuous meals . Since 2005 they’ve been “Returning Clients Trips” which meant meeting some friends from previous trips or other returning clients for the first time. Last year we got to the end of the Otago Rail Trail After and realised we’d basically run out of South Island!

That’s why from mid-April onwards I’ll be on a bike, plane, junk or boat somewhere between these places in Vietnam! It’s another Adventure South Returning Clients Trip with people coming from Australia, America, Japan & New Zealand. The plan follows, details in the extended post.

Mekong Delta Bicycle Tour & Northern Excursion 2008

Benmore and Otematata, today and yesterday - TVNZ ondemand connects two generations

Part of a recent cycle tour involved an overnight stay at Otematata and lap of Lake Aviemore (over Benmore Dam). Most on the trip, even me the “token Kiwi”,  were puzzled why there’s a 60 room hotel and little else at Otematata. Then it clicked that this was the project town for the Benmore Dam construction. Today apart from the impressive dams, lakes and that hotel there is little evidence that about 40 years ago over 4,500, including some of my relatives*, lived and worked there. As you can see from the photos what remains is beautiful.

On returning home I was looking at the recently launched TVNZ ondemand. This is TVNZ’s Internet based channel with shows for download. Some require subscription but there is lots of free content including content from the NZBC/TVNZ archives. The site is nicely done and with a reasonable broadband connection you get good quality video.

In the “Classic” section I spied a feature about Benmore from the series “These New Zealanders” . It was filmed in 1964 and shows Otematata in the middle of the construction period. Having just been there I was interested to see the footage of the valley before construction, the work that was done and how Otematata looked in very different times. Even without the local interest it’s worth a look to see how much both New Zealand and TV has changed;

• Selwyn “It’s in the bag” Toogood speaking best “BBC Kiw’english”. –  Wasn’t till probably the 70’s until you heard the natural Kiwi accent on TV.
• A construction worker rolls & smokes a cigarette while being interviewed, probably in his “smoko” break. – In todays smokefree world it’s strange to see.
• The Voxpop question responses which probably weren’t those they expected, but still didn’t get cut. – Asking the local: “Is Otematata a good place to bring up children?”, “No”
• They show quite small children boxing!  –  While we were there all the news was about the “Anti-Smacking Bill”.

View “These New Zealanders” Benmore at TVNZ ondemand (* look for a brief appearance by “Mrs Muirhead” at about 08:30)

UPDATE 27–03–2007: Only after reading the fine print did I find that these videos will only work within New Zealand. Pity as know many OE Kiwi’s who’d like to see them including “Mrs Muirhead”!

Back from "the Maniototo"

RobiNZ CAD Blog: Shutdown Week ends, back from "the Maniototo"
Shutdown week is over. It was a brilliant week of cycling in the South Island, mainly an area known as “the Maniototo". It’s a remote part of Central Otago which is hardly crowded itself…

View all my Otago Traverse Cycle Tour Photos

The time has come to shutdown...

 RobiNZ CAD Blog: The time has come to shutdown...
I’m not going to participate in the March 24th Shutdown Day as I’m going further and having a Shutdown Week!
I will be cycling in the South Island with Adventure South. The blue dashed line on the map below shows the proposed route…

Ginny's Kiwi Adventure Blog

I met Ginny on my first Adventure South (Island) cycle trip. It’s not uncommon for Adventure South’ers to return – I’ve just booked my 5th trip for March 2007 – and Ginny did, it was the first of several visits to New Zealand as a cycle, climbing, hiking tourist and triathlon competitor. Now she is back again, this time to live!

I know it was a shock coming from Californian summer to Christchurch winter (a balmy 2ºc) but that’s just the start of this Kiwi Adventure. Of course you can’t have Kiwi adventure without having a Kiwi Adventure Blog to share your experiences with friends, family & the interweb so here it is;

Ginny's Kiwi Adventures
My new life in New Zealand - for the edification and entertainment of my friends and family who aren't lucky enough to be heading off to New Zealand to live…

Colosseum in Rome, India's Taj Mahal, Dunedin Railway Station?

Well, it’s a great place to hop on-board the wonderful Taieri Gorge train but up there with the Colosseum & Taj Mahal?

I went to have a look at the station last year and the train was about to leave, seemed like a good way to spend the afternoon so jumped on-board. Dunedin was cold & grey but the weather was lovely in the gorge so it was a wise, lucky, choice. Perhaps the station deserved a closer look as doubt you’d dash thru the Colosseum & Taj Mahal just to get a train!

I’ll be back there next year as both are part of the Adventure South tour in March.

Otago news on Stuff.co.nz: Dunedin station ranked one of 'wonders of the world'
Dunedin's ornate railway station has been ranked among the world's "200 must-see places" by a leading travel guide. According to DK Eyewitness Travel, the Dunedin Railway Station is up there with the Colosseum in Rome and India's Taj Mahal as one of the wonders of the world….

Dunedin Railway Station Centenary

The Taieri Gorge Limited Tourist Train

Adventure South?

Why the new category: “Adventure South”?

All posts in this category are related to trips I’ve done with a New Zealand adventure/cycle tour company: Adventure South. They operate mainly in the New Zealand’s South Island but also offers some tours which venture into the North Island. Over the years I’ve had a quite a few people contact me after finding trip photos & related posts on my blog to ask more about the trips. I decided to collate them all with a special category and post this Q&A here based on the things I’ve been asked. This is an unsolicited story of how I found Adventure South and why I continue to go back.

• Note:
  • This info is based on my experiences and relates to the trips I’ve done at the time I did them.
  • For current information refer to the company website: www.advsouth.co.nz/
  • The images are mine, all taken during trips, not copied from a brochure!
• Disclosure: I knew literally nobody on my first trip but since then have kept in contact with both staff and clients who have become friends. It’s not uncommon to see familiar faces making return visits turning many trips into mini-reunions, surely a recommendation in itself.

(Click the thumbnail for the full image, location & details)

Porsche 997 Targa 4 in Tekapo, New Zealand

I saw the promotional photos for the new Porsche 997 Targa 4 and recognised the view…

See the website http://www.porsche.com/all/skydriving/usa.aspx

(Found via) Article and more photos at www.eurocarblog.com

My photo from Mount John during an Adventure South Cycle trip

Porsche on Mount John

Edited 24–07–2006: It’s Mt. John, not Mt. St. John as I first thought

On my bike in the South Island, well someone else's bike actually!

The “Northern Solstice” trip is Adventure South’s finale for the year. I guess “Northern” as covers the northern part of the South Island but not sure about the “Solstice” when it’s happening in April. I hope it’s to help rustle up some summer solstice weather in late Autumn!

The route is from Christchurch to West Coast, Abel Tasman, Nelson, Picton, Kaikoura & back to Christchurch. There are few “bumps” in that route including the Southern Alps (approx. route image) but not all of the 1000km is cycling (thankfully).

It's comfortable cycle touring supported by bus, staying in Motels/Lodges.  In the notes you may notice the occasional mention of restaurants, wineries, lunches, wines tastings and between them there are frequent stops help ward off starvation

Add a great bunch of people, awesome guides and you have the recipe for great fun. I only hope it doesn’t snow…

This will be my fourth trip with Adventure South and will complete nearly all the South Island. I’ve driven parts of this route in 2004 on the way south to join another Adventure South adventure, The West Coast Escape, but the section of the coast up to Westport will be all new to me.

Some extracts from the trip notes:

• Sun. April 2 – Christchurch > Greymouth
  • Board the Tranz Alpine express train in Christchurch, heading up into the foothills and into the Southern Alps.
  • At Arthurs Pass for the bold we have a stunning descent via the Aqueduct [hope they mean viaduct or perhaps expecting lots of rain!) and the upper gorge road to Jacksons and inland to Lake Brunner.
  • The ride out of Lake Brunner and down to Greymouth beside the Grey River - is a must!
• Mon. April 3 – Greymouth > Punakaiki
  • This day just has to be one of the best coastal rides in the country - well at least according to Bas and we know he wouldn't fib! It’s possible to wax lyrical but we will let the ride do the talking! Suffice to say that over the entire 50kms we haven't found a bad section yet.
  • Arrive into Punakaiki early and just hang out with some great local walks.
• Tues. April 4 – Punakaiki > Westport
  • But wait - there's more. Onwards with the coastal ride heading to Westport this time. This day has a few uphills and we will warn you about any serious grinds.
  • For the strong rider the 60 kms will pass fine and again we have time to explore the dramatic Cape Foulwind before heading to probably the best restaurant location in NZ for tonight's meal.
• Wed. April 5 – Westport > Nelson
  • The Buller River rises up in the Nelson Lakes and flows out to the sea at Westport. Today we have three awesome rides that take us up the Buller river and over into the Nelson Plains.
  • Two rides are magnificent backcountry rides that Bas has hunted out and combine these with the beautiful wineries that surround the city of Nelson - as well as its many arts and crafts shops.
• Thurs. April 6 – Abel Tasman/Nelson (Kayak, No biking)
  • The nearby Abel Tasman national park is a gem and by now the crowds have gone leaving us some beautiful beaches to explore.
  • As a special we walk into the Torrent Bay/Ancorage area with the many golden sandy beaches below, to then meet our yacht for an amazing sailing experience.
  • Anyone who might want to try their hand at some sea kayaking, we offer an optional sea kayaking trip!
  • Another night at Nelson is no hardship and the day away from the bike an enjoyable interlude.
• Fri. April 7 – Nelson > Kaikoura 
  • Nearby are the wineries of Blenheim as well as the coastal Queens Charlotte drive. The coach trip across to Havelock is beautiful and at the look out we set up for the 37 kms ride through to Picton.
  • Once there its a short drive over to St Clair winery and a lengthy lunch and tasting. Finally under the command from Bas its onwards and then a beautiful coastal ride as we travel southward to Kaikoura where we stay for the night.
• Sat. April 8 – Kaikoura > Christchurch
  • I’m doing the famous Whale watch at Kaikoura
  • Then its southwards, heading to Christchurch with a final great ride and a farewell meal on the outskirts of Christchurch. Sleep the sleep of the just tonight.

Cycle Trip Quick Update

This is a quick update, will do proper posts when home. excuse the typo's racing the meter on a kiosk machine

After a day in Dunedin joined the group. There are 8 cyclists + the two guides on this trip. It's a special only advertised to previous Adventure South clients so all have done previous trips - most two or three, but one has done eight!

Day One(Sun 10): We headed out  of Dunedin along the peninsular to the albatross colony. Perfect weather but a little cool when out of the sun & not riding. We saw Albatross - adult, juvenile and chicks. Some flying and even a feeding so had a great time. Apparently lucky to see all this as some see nothing. Then did a trip on Argo 8 wheel drive buggies - very cool - to see seal and penguin colonies. Accommodation and a gourmet dinner that night was at Larnoch Castle - really nice.

Day Two(Mon 11): Set off from the castle along the Dunedin coast till morning tea then a drive to just past Balclutha. Road the coast to heading into the Catlin's district. A bit of a drive then more cycling along empty roads with stunning coastal scenery. That night stayed in the Catlin's with a nice meal at the only place in town!

Day Three (Tue 12); A  short coastal walk took us to a beach with 11 sea lions, able to get close enough for a really good look but not too close! The cycling was great and after lunch by gourmet chef guide Bas we rode into the afternoon. By this time the weather had started to get rough as a southwest front rolled in but we were off the bikes by that time. Curio Bay was swept with gale force winds and rain but it was off to Invercargill by bus for us by that stage. Dinner was stunning, 1/2 dozen Bluff Oysters and a huge rare fillet steak so tender it melted in the mouth. It was a rough night as the gale blew and cold (6 deg c)

Day Four (wed13): Bused from Invercargill to Riverton then rode most the way to c. The coast was rough as it was still windy but for us a side/tailwind so OK. From Tuatapere on the land is mostly flat and managed avg speeds of about 28km/h. A great ride but ran out of time to get all the way to Manapouri. After a late lunch there rode to Te Anau which is where we stay. Tomorrow is a short hike and then on the boat to Doubtful Sound for the night.

Holiday - Not just from blogging

Things will be quiet here for a couple of weeks as I’m heading of on another Cycling tour with Adventure South. This time its to “The Catlins” which is the southern coast of New Zealand’s South Island.

I just hope it doesn’t snow

Tumonz Mapping & Cycle Touring

As an example of how TUMONZ can help with planning or recording cycle tours I have mapped a ride I did on both trips with Adventure South.
This is "The Crown Range Road", the highest main road in New Zealand. Its a challenging climb that includes a steep "zigzag" thats fun going either up or down!
I did this in the 2003 Milford Wilderness trip (Cadrona to Arrowtown)and the other way (Arrowtown to Cadrona) on the first day of the 2004 West Coast Escape.
To map in TUMONZ I selected the start & finish point and it found the route. As seen in the Route Dialog this is 30.2 km by road, approx 1.6 hours if done at an average touring speed of 18km/h. You can input any speed to get average travel times.

I used the new "Line Height Profile" tool to inspect the true elevation of any point on that route or any other marked line. The road route is indicated in the map as a magenta line. You can see that the peak (cursor location highlighted by yellow circle) is 1078m high and is 16km from the start of the ride.

Fantastic information that you can get for anywhere in New Zealand. Just plot a route or draw a map line and TUMONZ allows you to run the cursor along the track/line displaying distance & height. You can also get a 3d view as seen in at the start of this article. It may have been better not to know about this hill but at least with TUMONZ you get no nasty surprises!
All map image/data produced using TUMONZ - The Ultimate Map of New Zealand.

Cycle Tours with Adventure South

If you like cycling, hiking, eating, and want a fantastic way to see the South Island of New Zealand this is the company for you.
I have done two trips (Milford Wilderness & West Coast Escape) with them and will be going back for more!

See the photos of my trips in the Travel 2003 & 2004 Photo Albums on this site or Click to go to Adventure South New Zealand: Bicycle Tours, Walking Tours, & Adventure Travel

UPDATE 15 August, 2005: I have completed another trip with Adventure South in March 2005 and just booked another in April 2006!

UPDATE 06-07-2006: Just booked trip number five,  which departs March 2007, see a trend here?

2003 Photo Album Finished

What a holiday! It started with an Americas Cup Final race in Auckland.
Then down to the South Island for an Adventure South Milford Wilderness Cycle tour. Ten days with a great bunch of people and perfect weather (thanks Merve!).
Then across the Tasman for the 2003 Melbourne Grand Prix!
I doubt that combination could be achieved again!
Have a look at the album: Travel 2003 (South Island & Melbourne)

2004 Photo Album Finished

Two Weeks touring the South Island of New Zealand in the mighty Fiat Uno :-) followed by a West Coast Escape Bike Tour. A total of 5600km driving and about 300km cycling!
Have a look at Travel 2004 (South Island New Zealand)