RobiNZ Personal Blog

Last ride to Whangarei, huh? ~ Northland Sojourn 2012 Day 10

Yet again weather, the wind, dictated a change in plan for the last day. The route map had us heading south from Mangawhai Heads towards Wellsford, down Highway 16, and our Auckland destination. From Wellsford the road follows the Kaipara Harbour coast and climbs to some exposed ridges. This is a secondary highway but there was concern the strong south easterly crosswind would be pushing cyclists into the traffic flow.

That wasn’t the only reason everyone agreed a Whangarei finish — and drive straight back to Auckland — would be best but I’ll get to that later.

So we headed north from Mangawhai Heads but, in my case at least, not far. It’s been ages since I last had a puncture on the road and never with Adventure South. After eight trips — at a guess 4,000km? — it was my turn. I found a chunk of glass in the tyre and fixed it (with the tyre change timed by “B”!) before the chase bus appeared. However I didn’t do a very thorough job as a few kilometres down the road another small splinter, still stuck in the tyre, made it puncture number two!

Once I got going the riding was great. I have driven this road several times but never seen the sort of seas whipped up by the past week’s easterly gales. Once beyond Langs Beach & Waipu Cove we had a fast, tailwind assisted, ride into Waipu township where the bus was waiting. It was to shuttle us over the Brenderwyn Hills for a short reprise of the first few kilometres of the Day One ride.

We rode as far as Paparoa before turning off the main highway north towards Maungakaramea and Whangarei. The last time I travelled this road was in the 2 Litre Ferrari chasing WRC Rally New Zealand 2010.

It passes the finish of the legendary, in NZ rally circles at least, Swamp Road stage. It has railway over-bridge guaranteed to give a good view of rally cars in flight (right) and they run a spectator train from Auckland to take advantage of the location.

One benefit of a lousy summer was seeing Northland lovely and green. We were relatively lucky with the weather, especially the first few days, as just a week before major flooding had closed many highways. Although there were a few wet days, even more windy ones, it was still reasonably warm (for the time of year) so even when drenched the riding was ok. We could have done without the wind but flexible ride planning — aka the Guides nightmare — made the best of that. A gale isn’t so bad when it is a tailwind!

I don’t know if it was the end of trip factor, or the climbs and headwind on the ridges but I found this ride the hardest of the trip. I stopped & took a photo on the last hill (right) kind of hoping the bus would go past so I could catch a ride!

That didn’t happen but it was only a few kilometres, including a good downhill, to the final pick up point. I didn’t have a bike computer and only found out the end of the day that the two parts of the ride totalled something like 120km.

As mentioned we had two Whangarei locals on the tour and it made for a very special finale. We bussed to their home, up steep driveway we thankfully didn’t have to ride, for a shower and had the last dinner, Hell Pizza, there. It was very generous to be hosted and great way to finish the ride.

The evening drive back to Auckland was pretty swift with light traffic unlike going other direction. It appeared most of Auckland was heading North for Easter and following school holiday break. Adventure South trip eight was fun, if a little different for me. It was the first where I was really familiar with the area and had ridden a fair bit of the route. It was great to revisit it with a great bunch of people. Unless they dream up another NZ trip, I suspect my next Adventure South journey may have a Japanese flavour.

Whangarei to Mangawhai Heads, in an odd way ~ Northland Sojourn 2012 Day 9

It was another day when weather changed the plans. Having a Whangarei local on the trip helped scope out a ride almost opposite to the route map which looped south towards Managawhai Heads. It would have been a bash into the still strong South Easterly wind. Instead we shuttled East out to Whangarei Heads and rode North up the coast and back into town.

The surf at Ocean Beach was pretty impressive, for the East Coast, with the easterly providing a nice tailwind for the first part of the ride!

The road inland passes two striking volcanic peaks then follows the harbour shoreline climbing over bluffs between bays.

It was great riding and I made good time with the combination of downhill and tailwind. It is over a decade since I have been in this area and, although not too developed, there are some lovely new houses dotted on coastal ‘Lifestyle blocks’. One had a rather unusual mailbox (below)!

We rode back towards the Pacific coast to Pataua Beach, an ocean beach with large estuary/lagoon. I remember a family holiday there in 1974 when the ‘British Commonwealth Games’ were held in Christchurch, NZ because we took a TV.

That was rare in those days when holiday homes were typically simple buildings with cast off/second hand furniture, rather than today’s mansions by the sea.

Pataua has changed a but not beyond recognition. I remember we stayed near a grass reserve on the inlet but couldn’t pick the actual bach. Suspect it may have been replaced by more a modern house (below).

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I was amazed to find one thing hadn’t changed. I remembered a long dilapidated footbridge connecting Pataua North & South. It seemed old when I was eight and is still there (below) today, if only just judging by the scaffold props, and now quite a bit older! Without a boat, or swimming, this link is the only alternative to a 49 km drive. That was once a rough gravel road but we zipped across the footbridge and I was pleased it has been sealed.

The ride toward Whangarei was pretty. It initially follows an inlet before climbing to farmland with patches of bush and, eventually, the outer suburbs of Whangarei. I had a short excursion to Whangarei Falls before discovering the rendezvous was back at the harbour basin. By this time is was raining again but a post ride change of clothes made the bus trip to our evening accommodation at Mangawhai Heads more comfortable. We stayed at some lovely holiday chalets and had a great meal to finish the day.

Russell to Russell, and “a moment” ~ Northland Sojourn 2012 Day 8

One of the things I like about Adventure South is the flexibility of their plans. Obviously some aspects like accommodation must be pre-booked and you get a detailed itinerary, along with daily ride sheets with profiles, but it might change.

Today was one of those days as we were supposed to ride from Russell along the coast road to Whakapara. It was still blowing a, literal, gale from the East/South East (yellow arrows). After consultation we were driven to Whakapara down the inland main highway (blue arrow), with a short diversion to see the toilets in Kawakawa, and rode the coastal road back to our start point in Russell (red arrow).

That toilet diversion might sound an odd thing to do but they are a unique organic style mosaic finished building designed by Austrian born, later Kiwi citizen, Artist/Architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser and have become a bit of a tourist destination. I knew of his work as we had one of his prints (sadly not an original) when I was a kid. He spent quite a bit of time in New Zealand at his farm, near Kawakawa, and on his death in 2000 was buried there. The town has adopted the Hundertwasser theme and several main street buildings, artworks are done in his unique style.

We rode from Whakapara and the initial part was a little bit sheltered as the road runs up a valley. Until fairly recently this was a very rough corrugated gravel road, so bad it was banned for rental cars. I remember the Helena Bay Hill was legendary for boiling cooling systems, on the way up, and brakes, on the way down, as holiday makers carted everything including the kitchen sink ‘up North’.

The road is sealed now but still a challenging ride and the weather, constant rain and gusty wind, made the downhill as taxing as the uphill. We stopped at a lovely café/gallery near Helena Bay, a hot coffee and tasty treats were welcome. The road continues with more twisty climbs and descents as the bays roll past and even the occasional help from a tailwind when the road twisted inland.

‘The moment’ happened on the descent into Taupiri Bay. I had a fall before the trip and a sprained right thumb meant I had much less than the usual grip strength for braking. I’m usually a bit gung ho on downhills but with the wet and reduced braking was taking it easy. Unfortunately this hill was quite steep and even with all the brake I could muster, full rear & part front, arrived at one corner a bit too fast. It was a hairpin that went on, and on, and on with little more, on the outside, than a small grass verge before dropping to rocks & sea. I got to the point where I was running out of road, unclipped from the pedals and thinking of ditching the bike. Was even considering how to explain to Adventure South that their nice Trek road bike had disappeared into the ocean. Luckily there was just enough grip to get around the curve without losing the front wheel from under me or running out of road!

The rest of the ride was uneventful, cycling wise, but the coastal views were spectacular with huge surf crashing on the rocks and beaches (rare on this East Coast). Unfortunately it was too wet to carry a camera and capture the scene. Even the iPhone photo (below) taken on an inland section, while sheltered behind a tree, risked getting it wet from humidity, damp fingers and rain. It survived but spent the rest of the ride in a waterproof carry case..

We rode through to Russell and, after a change of clothes, got back on the bus to retrace our path to the overnight accommodation in Whangarei. It was a backwards but very memorable ride, both in spite of and because of the conditions.

 

Russell, a day of rest ~ Northland Sojourn 2012 Day 7

Monday was a rest day and after something like four hundred, at times challenging, kilometres in the previous few days it was welcome. It’s also intended for the overseas visitors to get out into  Bay of Islands on the many boat (classic & modern), jet boat, helicopter and seaplane tours available. Although Paihia, Russell & Waitangi are nice you have to get on the water to really appreciate the area.

We stayed at The Duke which is an old (again by NZ std’s) Hotel which has, to quote their website, “been Refreshing Rascals and Reprobates since 1827 and holds New Zealand’s first liquor licence”. Over the past decade or so various owners have developed it from a pub into a quality hotel. They have added modern facilities, like ensuite bathrooms, without compromising its classic character. One bonus is they offer fast free wireless to guests which is why I could upload some posts written earlier in the trip. I can recommend The Duke, it’s a nice place to rest!

I’ve been to the Bay of  Islands plenty of times so wasn’t really interested in the formal tours on offer. I had thought about borrowing a bike to explore the area around Russell but rain & windy weather deterred me. Turns out gale force winds meant most of the regular tours were not running anyway. A few ventured out but soon scurried back to port.

Although not part of the itinerary Adventure South took those who were interested out to a local vineyard for a wine tasting. It was a very acceptable way to spend the afternoon, with nice views over the Te Wahapu Inlet.

Taipa to Paihia, Russell ~ Northland Sojourn 2012 Day 6

From Taipa I was riding into very familiar territory. When I was a kid quite a few of our family Summer Holidays were on the East coast between Taipa & Whangarei. We stayed in a resort hotel in Taipa which was nice but different to most accommodation in the North. It was a single row of suite size rooms off a central corridor the length of those you see in Las Vegas Mega hotels. Quite bizarre in a NZ context but a nice place on a lovely beach.

Riding over the hill you get to Cable Bay which has changed a little since the holidays of old. A little strip of baches has expanded into a suburb (below left) but the beach (below right) is as lovely as ever.

Over the hill from Cable Bay is Mill Bay (below left). A calm sheltered anchorage for boats from around NZ & the world. It had also developed a bit but is still a charming place, especially when the tide is in. Some of us stopped in Mangonui, location of last nights Fush n Chups, for a coffee. It’s an old quaint, well as old & quaint as NZ gets, town with some sensitive development to improve the foreshore.

It was great to see the old General Store, perched over the harbour on stilts, is still trading despite the new supermarket just up the road at Coopers Beach. I remember many trips there to restock holiday consumables like fishing line, hooks, papers & milk!

The ride goes inland and battling a blustery headwind was made somewhat easier by watching a mobile motor-show heading North. At first I thought the passing parade was a classic British car club as MG, Riley, Austin Healy and (I think) Morris cars went past but then came a mix of modern & classic Aston Martin, Ferrari and Mercedes. We left the main highway to follow the coast around Whangaroa Harbour (below left) and avoided the wind! After an, at times, challenging series of climbs a long downhill took us to lunch on by the beach at Taiaue Bay (below right).

From lunch, at sea level don’t forget, a steep climb was rewarded by the amazing view over Matauri Bay (below left). It was still blowing a gale but mostly now a side, sometimes tail, wind as the road headed inland towards Waipapa. A secondary road led back out to Kerikeri where I took a short diversion to the Stone Store as thought that was a meeting place. There was no sign of anybody so I headed back up the hill and met the bus at the top heading down to the store. Some had already continued on towards Paihia, a short ferry ride from our overnight stop at Russell, so I did too.

The ride out of Kerikeri was good until you got to road works. Where they were actually working wasn’t too bad but the new seal they, is it transit or council on the main highways?, are laying these days is an awful uneven application of a very coarse chip. In addition to the chip grain it feels like the base coat is rough and vibration on a road bike with high pressure tyres is awful. It really is a relief to get back on the worn finer chip old seal!

I expected a headwind as we headed out towards Paihia but a couple of hills nearer the coast and the evening calm must have been enough to subdue it. The ride map showed a loop around to Opua to catch the vehicle ferry, the route the bus had to take, but those of us still riding got the passenger ferry from Paihia, just.

It sails regularly but they held one for us that was about to depart which saved about 30 minutes waiting. The hotel in Russell was a welcome sight and it’s location near the wharf brilliant after a long day in the saddle. Stagger along the wharf, across the road, into the room and a hot shower. Tomorrows rest day will be spent resting!

Ahipara to Cape Reinga, Taipa Bay ~ Northland Sojourn 2012 Day 5

It was raining as we set off from Ahipara. After a short shuttle to Kaitaia it was on the bike for two of us headed for the Cape. The rest got shuttled a bit further, starting their ride after a morning coffee. The initial drizzle slowly abated as we headed North with a strong easterly wind providing some assistance, but not always favourable.

We both skipped morning coffee but the extra distance meant we met the rest of the group as they started riding from near Houhora Reserve. I stopped for some fuel at Pukenui, Picnic Bar & Energy Chocolate, and the rain started again going from drizzle to heavy rain.

There was a further fuel stop at Te Kao — amazing how good dispensing machine coffee can be in the right circumstances — and by then torrential rain & gusty strong wind required a change of plan. The picnic lunch was abandoned in favour of Waitiki Landing Café. The sensible stopped riding and got back in the warm dry bus for this section.

I didn’t and arrived there drenched. Soon after sitting down I was amazed to be approached by a couple of work colleagues who were showing some visitors the Cape.

I was feeling good after lunch and chose to carry on cycling, the only one stupid enough to do so! The last 20km had quite a few climbs, about 200m high, made tougher by the blustery wind. One bonus was the rain abated as I approached the Cape and some parts of the road sheltered by cuttings were bone dry.

It was great to get to Cape Reinga, both the relief to have made it and spectacular scenery. There is a new path and I couldn’t resist riding down to do a loop around the lighthouse itself even though it meant one more hill. There were no photos for me today as it was too wet to carry a camera, didn’t even have my iPhone for most of the day. Hope to get some off the others on the trip when time allows.

Although the weather was challenging I found the riding good. A bit of side/tailwind at times took the sting out of the distance — about 110km — and the last hilly section was fairly sheltered until you climbed to the exposed ridges.

It was also nice to have a bus ride back to our accommodation at Taipa Bay, hot shower and dinner at the "World Famous Mangonui Fish n Chip Shop". Their Fisherman's Basket refilled the fuel tank ready for another big ride tomorrow. I knew some of the roads we were heading towards would require it.

Opononi to Ahipara ~ Northland Sojourn 2012 Day 4

We bussed straight to Rawene to avoid some serious road works and to get an awesome breakfast at the Boatshed Café. I had seen this featured on TV and it lived up to its reputation for fine food, coffee and a lovely location.

This also meant we made an earlier ferry crossing giving some more free time at our next destination: Ahipara Beach.

The ride, road, from Kohukohu was new to me. On the previous cycle trip, and several car road trips, I have taken the inland route over the Mangamuka Ranges. We avoided them, and a big climb, by taking a road which follows a drovers route. It goes through lovely rolling countryside with a mix of native, pine and exotic trees. Adventure South laid on one of their awesome roadside lunches beside the river in Broadwood.

There were a couple of reasonably challenging climbs before a fast downhill into Ahipara. It was the first time I've visited this part of 90 Mile Beach and it is lovely.

Dinner was at the motel and their superb rare tender carpetbag steak more than made up for the disappointing one at Opononi. It turned out I would need all those calories the next day…

Baylys Beach to Opononi ~ Northland Sojourn 2012 Day 3

After breakfast at "Funky Fish" we rode North on the West Coast. The day started in rolling farm country before climbing into the Waipoua Forest.

There were a few challenging hills, ~400m high, but again fine weather and a tailwind made for perfect riding. I had driven this road long ago when it was still gravel. It is now sealed and on a bike you have time to appreciate the wonderful views of native bush dotted with Kauri.

After a picnic lunch by the river the ride continued with a gentle climb on a stunning quiet forest road. Some of it reminded me of the Waitakere Ranges Scenic Drive near my home but with much more impressive bush, a far better road and almost no traffic!

A short walk, 2 minutes of the road, takes you to New Zealand’s oldest (known) and largest remaining Kauri Tree. Tane Mahuta is thought to be about 2000 years old. It is about 51m high, 14m girth and is an impressive sight.

From the forest you descend, via an awesome winding downhill graded to not need brakes, into a farmland valley and rush hour traffic (below). The Herekino 4 Square Postshop lady was very friendly, sorting postage for the motel key which had come with me from Baylys. I thought had left it in the room but somehow had bundled, wrapped up in my rain shell, into my bike bag. I only discovered it after lunch when searching for an allen key to adjust my seat!

After about 15km a short steep, but not as steep as warned, climb crests the ridge presenting one of the most wonderful views in the North. The Hokianga Harbour with its golden sand dune North Head is an impressive sight.

Unfortunately the Opononi Hotel served up a nice tasting steak meal & great ensuite bathroom shower but ruined things by making sure both were luke-warm at best. A pity considering their location, metres from the harbour, is superb.

Auckland to Baylys Beach ~ Northland Sojourn 2012 Day 2

Wednesday dawned fine and clear. I know this because, unusually for me, I was up. Although not leaving till 8:00 I decided to go into town early to avoid traffic hassles. It was good as just beat the Auckland rush, arriving in town about 7:15. After dumping my luggage in the bus trailer I had time to wander down to Rosehip Café for a nice coffee to start the day.

We drove out of Auckland to the base of the Brynderwyn Hills. The first ride turned away from them, thankfully, heading across country to Matakohe.

The first time I cycled this, about 30 years ago, we stopped & camped overnight at Pahi, in the upper Kaipara Harbour. I stopped to take a photo of it (below right) and shot this photo (left) of a truck obviously didn't think the "share the road" (with cyclists) signs applied. In the photo the cyclist is not even on the road, riding a minute verge to the left of the solid side line. Several of the group, all experienced international cycle tourists, commented that this truck had been aggressive. It was disappointing as the vast majority of traffic, I notice Fonterra milk tankers especially, are good at leaving a gap.

We had lunch at the Matakohe Kauri Museum. It has been a few years since I last visited this and it has expanded immensely. It covers the history of the Kauri industry with displays of the lifestyle, machinery and products and is well worth a visit.

From there we rode to Dargaville across the river plains. Last time I did this was after a damp sleepless night in a tent at Pahi, we set out into a howling westerly headwind on a cold, wet December day. Although we were supposed to be camping that night the ride was so hard and miserable we found a motel with spa pool and blew our modest travel budget!

In total contrast Adventure South had arranged perfect conditions with sunny skies and a strong (mostly) tailwind for the 50km haul across the flat to Dargaville. It was such a pleasure to be zipping along at 20-30km/h on a nice light bike that in spite of — it must be said — rather dull scenery it was a lovely ride. The road follows the Wairoa River until crossing a rather large bridge into Dargaville.

We rode through the town on to Baylys Beach. Some of the visitors were surprised a ride to the coast could end with an up hill section! Baylys beach is accessed via a rather steep cutting which opens out to kilometres of pristine West Coast surf beach.

The Sunset View Lodge view over the Tasman lived up to it's name but cloud on the horizon muted the sunset. We dined at local restaurant, "Funky Fish", and I had superb fish (John Dory) & chips.

Auckland Prelims ~ Northland Sojourn 2012 Day 1

It was a strange start for me. It is my eighth trip with Adventure South but the first time my holiday hadn't started with a pack and dash to the airport. All the South Island trips began with a flight to Christchurch, one to Ho Chi Minh City! 

I met the rest of the group at their Auckland City accommodation with just the bike bits I was taking — seat, pedals & helmet. Seemed odd not having all my luggage but today’s agenda was just a short ride around Tamaki Drive. That is very familiar territory for me, part of our Sunday weekly ride, but a good chance to get used to the bike and sort any adjustments.

I had chosen a supplied bike, rather than my own, as it is easier for the guides and meant any mechanical problems would be covered. Although my bike isn't exotic, actually not as good as the Adventure South Trek road bikes, you can bet it would some impossible to replace part which failed, if any.

Although familiar the view from Achilles Point, past St Heliers at the end of Tamaki Drive, is worth the ride. I didn’t have a real camera but these iPhone photos auto-stitched into a panoramic shot by Windows Live Photo Gallery came out alright. Just overlap the photos when you take them, dump into Photo Gallery, click “Create Panorama” and it’s done.

After the ride I shot home to finish packing and came back into town for the first tour dinner at Portofino, in the Viaduct. I had nice tender Calamari and Auckland turned on a still, calm relatively warm (almost summer) evening. After than it was home for the night ready for the serious cycling to begin on Wednesday morning.

Adventure South on Getaway, memorable because I did!

I haven’t done the “Alps to Ocean” route shown here but have ridden many of these roads on various Adventure South tours. It’s only a short clip but brings back memories of awesome trips, road/lakeside lunches (and the bus carrying all your kit!).

I rode the Pukaki canals on my first trip in 2004. It was, literally, a picture postcard perfect day:

I didn’t get the chance to ride a Penny Farthing in Oamaru but its memorable for another reason. I suspect you could possibly do 79.3 km/h down this (San Francisco’like steep) Oamaru hill on a bike but would need a GPS to verify it....

Technology reinforced sedentary lifestyle guilt

It’s winter and, apart from doggy walks & very occasional bike rides, I tend to hibernate a bit. It’s a chance to catch up with the MySky recording back log (like all the Dr Whos since David Tennant left) and other inside stuff.

However our amazingly technological world reminds me what others are up to and makes me think I should be doing more. From my inbox today…

• Via Twitter I discover AKSitP friends who are “sailing from Mexico to New Zealand on their Lagoon 380 catamaran.” are now “Anchor down Papeete, Tahiti” (green arrow). @toastfloats are using a combination of marine SSB radio & local phone/web data (when in range) to report locations & status to their Twitter followers. It’s been cool to follow their progress across the Pacific with the help of Twitter & web maps.

• Via email I know Bas & Belinda (who I could not keep up with on the last Adventure South trip!), currently cycling in South America, are now about 800km from Puno, Lake Titicaca, where they started. This position was reported via satellite using a Spot GPS location reporting device. I know where they are & all is ok without them needing to do anything more than press a button. Isn’t technology wonderful!

Time for lunch!

The West Coast Penguin Mystery?

Back in 2006 I took a photo of this rather unique road sign on the South Island’s West Coast.

This year (in somewhat better weather) I couldn’t resist taking the same photo again. It wasn’t until I got home that I noticed “next 10km” of penguin in 2006 had reduced to 5km in 2011.

However a few kilometres up the road there was another “Next 5km” of penguin so maybe they have just moved along the coast a bit?

Coast To Coast 2011 — New Zealand South Island Cycle Trip

I recently spent ten days in the South Island on a fabulous cycle tour from Christchurch over to the West Coast (Punakaiki to Karamea), Abel Tasman Park, Nelson Lakes, Picton & Kaikoura with Adventure South Cycle Tours.

How quickly the daily grind returns, not helped by the end of daylight saving and arrival of winter soon after I returned to Auckland. At least there are the memories & photos of a wonderful holiday with great people.

I have added some of the photos to my daily blog posts, written on the iPhone as we went. All are indexed, along with the full photoset on Flickr, on this page: Adventure South Coast To Coast 2011 Posts

http://rcd.typepad.com/personal/adventure-south-coast-to-coast-2011.html

Coast To Coast 2011 - Let the great photo upload begin!

Away ten days, only six hundred & forty photos...

UPDATE 2011-04-02: The 2011 Coast to Coast photoset, now only 609 photos after a bit of culling, is here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/robinzblog/sets/72157626180813911/

Coast to Coast 10 - Kaikoura to Christchurch

I had a lazy start to the day while some of the others were up before dawn to swim with dolphins.

I heard "Team Canada" set out early as they were going to ride more of the last day ride than most of us. I thought about doing the same but decided a cruise'y wind down was a better idea for the last day.

After a sleep-in I wandered across the road to the beach to take in the view and deal with my very ignored home email inbox. After "processing" (OK mostly deleting) 97 emails it was time for a coffee.

The dolphin swimmers returned and I had a leisurely breakfast with them. We were bussed the first part of the ride (which I have done on a previous trip) to leave an easy 30km to lunch.

The day was awesome (again) and I had lots of photo stops. The inland road is longer than Hwy 1 but is a worthy diversion (nice drive by car) if you want a change. It had little traffic and few trucks as they all take the flatter, quicker coast road.

There are spectacular views (on a clear day like we had) of the Alps as you drive through rolling farms. Occasionally the road plunges down to cross a river then climbs back to the plateau.

I noticed a couple of motorbikes (one a lovely sounding Ducati) did several "laps" of the road as we rode, obviously enjoying the day at somewhat higher velocities! Some Alpaca took an interest in us as we passed, except for the one at the back who never gave up guarding his hill.

Self portrait, from the saddle

The last lunch break.

At the lunch stop "Team Canada" came in a few minutes after us having done the full 85km. The last ride was a 20km run down a valley to meet Hwy 1. A nice way to end to a great trip, spectacular scenery, great company and wonderful views if you remembered to look up from the road!

Coast to Coast 9 - Picton to Kaikoura

A really nice Cafe Gusto breakfast (fruit muesli and two flat whites for me) filled the fuel tank for the morning ride. Clear blue skies and sun signalled another promising day.

We caught a water taxi across a mirror flat sound to begin our ride near Portage. After climbing "a bit of a saddle" the road ran alongside Kenepuru Sound heading back towards Havelock, ultimately to Picton.

The sounds looked stunning with sun speckled turquoise waters and green bush. The terrain was great for cycling with short ascents & descents around the bluffs between bays. At the head of the sound a stiff climb took us over a ridge to join the Queen Charlotte Sound road.

I've ridden, and driven, this before but it was no hardship to repeat such a nice ride. The wind had got up a little but once in the bays it wasn't an issue. After skirting the coast the road gradually rises around a bluff. This made the last part of the ride a twisty speedy downhill towards Picton.

Another awesome ride in perfect weather. Then it was on the bus to a late afternoon winery lunch, near Blenheim, and a drive to Kaikoura.

PS: A couple of days later my flight home gave a wonderful view of this ride from 10,000m above. We went from Picton (top centre) by boat across to the peninsular on the West (top left), rode down it’s West coast, over the saddle to the green farm area (lower right) then back around Queen Charlotte Sound to Picton.

Next Coast to Coast 10 - Kaikoura to Christchurch

Coast to Coast 8 - Tophouse to Picton

Today was payback for yesterdays ascent. It was mostly gradual but totalled something like 1000m.

We left Top House and sped down a valley beside the Buller River. 35km of downhill/flat where it felt slow when your speed dropped below 30km/h, for the most part 40+ was easy to maintain (max 67). I didn't see or hit any Kiwi on the highway but there were signs they are there.

Although the clouds hung low in the hills I only got a few spits of rain, there was no wind although the roads were only damp from overnight rain.

It was a nice ride through a landscape which reminded me a little of the Rotorua/Taupo region with its mix of river, pine forest & farms.

After a roadside coffee and short bus ride, over gravel road too rough for the road bikes, we had more delightful riding.

A smooth tarmac road led down the valley back to yesterday's lunch stop, Tapawera. It was a gradual descent and the cloud gave way to sun as we rode.

Farms dotted with trees showing autumn colours, some established Oaks on the roadside and a quiet traffic free road made for lovely riding.

Arriving back in Tapawera meant another chance to try the Cafe's lovely carrot cake until I was tempted by a fresh cream donut. Probably 20 years since I last had one and cycling 58km to get it seemed justification to pig out!

The clouds returned and the rain closed in so we hit the road in the bus headed for our overnight destination; Picton. I didn’t swim in this, cold as hell, river but somebody did!

It's a DIY dinner tonight which, if can get Sky Sport, will most likely be takeaways and (my religion) Formula One.

* It was actually couple of damn fine “Sounds Smoked Salmon” & “Margarita” Pizza from Cafe Cortado in Picton to accompany the F1 Australian Grand Prix. Good to see Petrov on the podium but a pity Webber & Ferrari didn't do better.

Next Coast to Coast 9 - Picton to Kaikoura

Coast to Coast 7 - Motueka to Tophouse (St Arnaud)

By the time our leisurely cafe breakfast, yummy "Mango Fruslie" & a Latte for me, was over the forecast rain was just very light drizzle.

We rode from the motel down the Motueka Valley. Last time I went down this road it was in "the one litre Ferrari" but that was way back in 2005. Didn't realise I would see another "Ferrari" on this trip. Although overcast the weather was dry soon after leaving Motueka, not quite golden weather but good for riding.

We stopped for lunch at Tapawera (According to Wikipedia: The geographic centre of New Zealand is located close to Tapawera, in the nearby Spooner Hills) and met a real cycle tourist from Perth. She had done most the South Island on a touring bike towing a 1 wheel trailer.

The afternoon ride was towards Nelson Lakes through pine forests. It was a nice ride in almost perfectly calm air which made one hill climb hot work. I had to stop for a photo of “My Road”, a gravel forest access track. Bas met us at the turnoff for our accommodation which saved a kilometre or so of walking the road bike up a rough gravel road.

We are spending the night in an old Hotel, by NZ standards, built in late 1887. After 96km on the bike it was lovely to get a hot shower, then sit in the sun with a cold Weka Beer in anticipation of tonight's wild Venison dinner.

Next Coast to Coast 8 - Tophouse to Picton

Coast to Coast 6 - In The Abel Tasman

Zero Kilometres on the bike today as it was all walking & kayaking in the Abel Tasman National Park. It is my second visit but this time will be doing more walking & less kayaking than the last trip. It was a cool and cloudy start to the day but as we got on the water taxi a glimpse of sun gave some hope it would improve. Red Sky in the morning was pretty but not a good sign.

We landed at The Anchorage and walked the headland to Pitt Point. The route back passed through Te Pukatea Bay which was our lunch stop on the previous kayak.

Then it was over a ridge from The Anchorage to Watering Cove, where the explorer, D'Urville, replenished his water supply in 1827.

As we walked the cloud burnt off to leave a lovely sunny day with calm seas and favourable light winds for our kayak home. Kayaking guide Josh was already waiting with lunch and four double kayaks (plus his own single).

We headed across to Adele Island and, in a few kilometres of coast, saw seals & blue penguins basking & swimming along with the usual shags, gannets & terns. The island is a predator free sanctuary and the (land) bird song added a lovely soundtrack as we glided down the coast.

After meandering around Adele & Fisherman Islands it was back to Marahau to finish an awesome (yes, I know I have used that word a lot in these posts but it was!) day on the water.

It appears this may be the end of the golden weather as it is pouring with rain as I write. The forecast tomorrow is for rain so a late'ish start and cafe breakfast is on the agenda then whatever the weather decides.

Next Coast to Coast 7 - Motueka to Tophouse (St Arnaud)

Coast to Coast 5 - Karamea to Motueka

Today we got to have fun while Bas did the 400+km drive from Karamea to Takaka. It was also sad as Pep (from Adventure South) left with him heading back to work at the Christchurch Office. She will be missed!

Former Adventure South’er "The other Robyn" put her guiding hat back on for a few hours and was assisted by Karamea local Dave. I thought he was just driving us out to the Oparara bush/cave walks but he stayed & walked with us. A lovely guy whose local knowledge, yarns and humour really made the visit memorable.

Dave dropped us at Karamea Aerodrome for the next leg of our journey, a short flight to Takaka. It was another spectacular day so we saw Kahurangi National Park looking at its best from the air.

I like flying and swooping around mountain peaks (in a small 4 seat aircraft) was awesome. We soared thermals up the western mountain faces, picking our way through the peaks, then popped over a ridge to see Golden Bay appear before us. The weather was so clear you could see from Farewell Spit to beyond Nelson!

 

A quick descent and smooth landing later we met Bas again. His 6 hour drive (with bus, luggage & bikes) had taken us about 30-40 minutes.

Unfortunately the need to do a couple extra shuttle flights ate into the time we were supposed to spend climbing the Takaka Hill (which also had one stretch of roadworks). One advantage of a supported trip is you don't have to cycle every kilometre we so skipped the 10km, 930m high, ascent but not the descent on the other side! The bonus was it also meant had the chance to visit the amazing Pupu Springs. A cold fresh water spring which is said to have the clearest water on earth. So tempting to take a swim but it's not permitted to preserve the pristine water.

I must admit my guilt about riding down a hill I hadn't ridden up vanished by the time we got to the top of the Takaka Hill. Although would like to do it one day we didn't have the time really doubt I had the legs for it anyway!

The downhill was awesome, twice caught the same car even though I stopped for a photo (& they didn't). Not massively steep but kilometres of swooping smooth tarmac curves & hairpins where maintaining 40-70km/h meant you were going as fast as those vehicles with motors.

Adding a loop to the coast via Marahau/Kaiteriteri added a few hills and meant we'd cycled about 45km by the time we arrived in Motueka.

Thai dinner tonight and then it's time to pack a day pack for tomorrow's tramping and kayaking.

Next Coast to Coast 6 - In The Abel Tasman

Coast to Coast 4 - Westport to Karamea

I found it a bit difficult to cycle when leaving Westport. Maybe the energy from last nights lovely rare steak hadn't kicked in or perhaps pancakes & maple syrup for breakfast was a mistake?

Things got better after 10km which was a relief as still had about 90 to go. The first 40 km or so was mostly flat but a swirling wind made the long straights more "interesting". It varied between headwind, tailwind and side wind, often all at nearly the same time!

Initially you don't see the coast but amazing clear weather meant the inland ranges looked close enough to touch.

When we did hit the coast, proper, near Granity it was awesome. I diverted to the beach for some photos only to find it crowded (one other person walking their dog).

It’s also the place to buy Proper, as opposed to improper, Ties

After crossing a river the road went inland and climbed Karamea Bluff. This is part of the Kahurangi National Park so the 6km, 420m high, steady climb was rewarded with spectacular views and a bird song chorus as you rode.

The descent was as long but also not a very steep. At one stage I got to 69km/h but perhaps most interesting was a "recommended 25km/h" left hand corner which really did mean 25km/h. I made it around OK, and stayed on the correct side of the centre line, but only just. Quite glad there was nobody coming the other way!

The road to Karamea is a dead end and road works on a bridge (which only opens at set times) meant traffic varied from sparse to none. Quite cool to ride three abreast with one on the wrong side of the road on a State Highway (even if it was effectively closed behind us).

Another awesome day added 99km to the clock and concluded with a lovely dinner at "The Last Resort". Although it's at the end of a 94km dead end road it is worth the trip.

Next Coast to Coast 5 - Karamea to Motueka

Coast to Coast 3 - Punakaiki to Westport

It was a mixed day which combined inland bush & coastal walks with some cycling in between.

The morning started with a short walk up one river, a climb up to a ridge and descent to another river running through a lovely limestone gorge. Lush bush & spectacular rocks & cliffs were enhanced by the continued perfect weather.

We returned to Punakaiki for a look at the infamous pancake rocks which were a bit flat compared to my last visit in a storm. Most amazing was the clear air which allowed a view of the Southern Alps far to the south. After that it was time to grab a bite to eat and a welcome coffee. I escaped the cafe just as a tour arrived, one of those "real" ones with 40+ stuffed in a coach...

Then it was on the bike for a re-run, for me, of the Punakaiki to Charleston ride. Last time I did it a blustery, but warm, overcast day turned into torrential rain while we rode. I remember us arriving at the Charleston Pub ringing wet but it appeared they were quite used to that!

Today it was clear blue skies and a mild south westerly (tailwind). This ride mostly hugs the coast and the views are spectacular. I re-shot lots of the photos I took last time as the coast looked completely different. Instead of big surf under grey skies it was relatively calm sparkling white waves against a blue sea & sky.

I remembered some of the ride, including a hill with several false summits, but parts of it must have been erased from the grey cells as I couldn't remember them at all!

It was rather different arriving in Charleston hot & sweaty, but still dripping! I shot down to see the bay & its hard to believe this tiny inlet was used as a harbour (in the gold rush days).

One street name in Charleston (and there aren’t many!) caught my eye. Seems more appropriate for Auckland plaster board townhouses from the late 90s!

Today's ride was only 30km (max 65km/h) but a couple of climbs, combined with walks, which totalled about 3 hours, seemed enough.

From there it was a short bus trip to the Cape Foulwind walk. I've done this before, in the storm, but the calm fine weather showed a different aspect of it.

Now it's time for dinner at a beachside restaurant south of Westport.

Next Coast to Coast 4 - Westport to Karamea

Coast to coast 2 - Arthurs Pass to Punakaiki

After a bit of uphill from Arthurs Pass to the ridge it was, at last, my chance to tackle the amazing Otira Viaduct descent. I had been denied this on two previous trips due to miserable weather but today was rewarded with perfect conditions.

It's a steep grade (16%) that goes on and on down a stunning Southern Alps gorge. I got to 85km/h on the straight part before deciding it was prudent to brake for the "recommended" 45km/h corner rapidly approaching. Even with several photo stops maintaining a high average speed was no problem. As it flattened out a little, but still downhill, another Easterly tailwind made it easy to maintain 30-45km/h for the next 30km.

I saw this amazing Weta on sale in Otira, wonder if my Dad would like it for his birthday…

After a coffee stop we headed around Lake Brunner, on quiet rolling roads, to Moana for a lunch stop. By this time we had done about 65km but the gradient and tailwind meant it felt like less!

After lunch I struggled a bit, feeling a bit "tight" in the legs, but think this was in part due to adapting to a different bike. It's a lovely 21 speed Trek road bike and some adjustments helped as the afternoon went on. The 20km Moana - Stillwater ride was a bit dull compared to the spectacular scenery earlier in the day.

It wasn't helped by some long straights, which I don't like, and a bit of headwind as the sea breeze came up the valley. I seriously doubted making the whole 140km to Punakaiki but after Stillwater the road got a bit more twisty and interesting my legs seemed to come back.

After hitting the coast a mix of stunning scenery, fine weather and no headwind made the last 30km to Punakaiki a pleasure. By the time I arrived at our, beautiful, accommodation the odometer showed 142km, max speed 85km/h.

Dinner, whitebait fritters entree & hapuka main, as the sun set over a clam (for the West Coast) was a lovely finish to the best ride I've had, ever!

Next Coast to Coast 3 - Punakaiki to Westport

Coast to Coast 1 - Springfield to Arthurs Pass

We left Christchurch to avoid drizzle and headed to Springfield. This avoided the dull cycle across the Canterbury Plains and meant we escaped the rain.

It was an easy start until things got serious with the ascent of Porters Pass. Mostly steep, apart from the bits which were steeper!, it was quite a climb. Something like 800m in a few kilometres (must check Google Earth when I get home).

The pay back came with an awesome descent which I got up to 75km/h. From there we headed to Arthurs Pass along part of a route I've ridden before. In addition to lovely scenery there was a constant stream of Vintage cars heading East to admire. The riding was eased by a , rare, easterly tailwind.

I didn't make it all the way to Arthurs Pass, some did, as time ran out. The last ten km is a bit narrow, gloomy bush overhung and I have ridden it the other way before so it was not great loss. Besides 74 km, with that climb, was enough for day one.

Spent the night at Arthurs Pass which meant tomorrows highlight, the Otira Viaduct was just a few km away over the hill. Christchurch, where we were initially going to be tonight, had quite a big 5.something aftershock. We didn’t feel anything at Arthurs Pass (which is on the Alpine Fault), not aware it happened until I got a text from my sister in Christchurch.

Next Coast to Coast 2 - Arthurs Pass to Punakaiki

Heading South

Seemed a little bit busy, and slightly unorganized, at Auckland airport. In the time it took to drop a bag & waltz thru security (yes officer that is a bicycle seat in my cabin bag) they changed the gate. It was to be a no air-bridge one so lined up only to find that plane was heading to Wellington!
Seems we had an aircraft change & gate change but this 737 seems to be going fine. It was a nice sunny, Simpsons clouds , day in Auckland but seems to be clouding over as we head further south.
This was written over W(h)anganui and I couldn't see Mt Taranaki, then realized we were on top of it! Love the perfect circle bush line where the mountain meets the farms.
A little sobering to glide effortlessly over hills that, next time I see them, will be tackled by bicycle.
It was a bit grey & noticeably cooler when we touched down. Might be needing that wet weather gear I have lugged but rarely used on my previous Adventure South trips.

I’m on my, well really someone else’s, bike coast to coast style!

Later this week I’m heading South to join a bunch of friends, some old & new, on another Adventure South returning clients trip. It starts & finishes in Christchurch but most of the time is spent on the West Coast & Northern South Island.

I have cycled some of this route before, the pictures below are from my previous trip, but as you can see there is no great hardship revisiting this lovely country. I’m hoping the weather cooperates, especially on the second day! Two previous attempts to cycle up/down the Otira hill — an insane Southern Alps descent — have been foiled by cold winds & torrential rain on that side of the mountains. This time it has to be good!

This trip is a mix of cycling, walking, kayaking and (as is usual with Adventure South) a healthy dose of eating, merriment & memorable moments. As usual I plan to take lots of photos to look back on.

It’s going to be fun but the web will probably be hard to find so blogging & twittering may be sparse, if at all until I get back.

The Plan (Subject to weather & other natural phenomenon…)

Day 1  — It’s off to Banks Peninsula for an exciting ride on the spectacular Banks Peninsula Summit Road, a picnic lunch with a view and some time in “French” Akaroa.

Day 2 — Early in the morning we’ll leave with our bus and trailer for a drive to Arthur’s Pass. From the township of Arthur’s Pass you ride to the summit and then it’s a fast and furious ride to Otira, then pretty well all the way down hill to Jacksons where we stop at the pub for lunch. Here, we’ll leave the main road, to cycle along quiet roads to Punakaiki.

Day 3 — There’ll be plenty of time in the morning to explore the area. We’ll take you for a walk along the spectacular Pororari River. After lunch we’ll cycle to Westport via Charleston and Cape Foulwind.

Day 4 — Today we’ll cycle north to tiny and remote Karamea. We start off real easy along quiet and flat coastal roads and pass settlements but then we’re heading inland up and over the Karamea Bluffs, which are challenging and offer spectacular riding with great vista’s from the top, to end up in Karamea

Day 5 — After an early breakfast we’ll take you to some impressive limestone formations and is surrounded by truly magnificent bush. We’ll find a good spot to enjoy our lunch and then we’re off to the airstrip for our scenic 35min flight over the Kahurangi National Park. Our day is by no means over because this afternoon we’ll take on the mighty Takaka Hill. From sea level we’ll steadily climb to 800 m, from the top, the views are great and the downhill to bustling Motueka truly exhilarating!

Day 6  — Motueka is the gateway to the Abel Tasman National Park. Today we drive the short distance to Marahau in the National park and hop on a boat that will take us to the marine reserve around Tonga Island for a beautiful sea kayaking tour in the reserve and to the nearby seal colony.

Day 7 — Back on our bikes today and again we’ve got a great cycle ride for you which will take us through the scenic Motueka Valley. We follow the Motueka River towards St. Arnaud  where we spend the night

Day 8 — Today we are hoping for strong westerlies, which will help us to cycle east to Picton. Today’s lunch will be at a renowned winery in the middle of the famous Malborough Wine district. The Queen Charlotte Scenic Drive awaits us and that is a ride not to be missed! Tonight, we’ll stay in Picton, Malborough Sounds.

Day 9 — We start our day with a walk along the Queen Charlotte Sound. We gradually climb higher onto the peninsula and the views are spectacular. At the end of the walk, the bikes await us and from here we cycle via Waikawa to the east coast and Port Underwood.

Day 10 — Probably one of the best things to do in Kaikoura might be the swimming with the dolphins, although Kaikoura is best known for its whale watching activities. After a late breakfast we’ll take the scenic and quiet inland road to Waiau and cycle the best sections, before returning to Christchurch for our last dinner together.

Bing’s world’s craziest drives includes The Milford Sound Road

Below are two photos of the Milford Sound Rd heading from Homer Tunnel to Milford Sound. The first was taken just before a thrilling 800m to 0m (sea level) 8km mountain bike descent, part of the Adventure South Milford Wilderness trip. I have also done this in the car (fun in the mighty 1.0 litre Uno) and by helicopter. On a scenic flight we landed by the road near the tunnel to drop someone off then swooped down the valley following the road. It’s one of the roads featured in the Bing Travels “The world’s craziest drives” and deserves to be there!

  

Bing - The world’s craziest drives - Travel Blog - Bing Community

Full tank of gas? Check. Map and directions? Check. Sense of adventure and drama? Most definitely check.

Here at Bing Travel, we love winding highways that ribbon themselves enticingly around the hills, up the coast, down the river, or through the side of a mountain. The best and most interesting roadways command the driver’s attention as they wend their way through serpentine switchbacks and up steep slopes, offering views of spectacular natural beauty.

A new Bing Travel slide show  presents a photo gallery of 12 of these delicious roads across the globe, all of which come with a nerve-tingling hint of danger…

Some other views from the Te Anau – Milford Road

 

Remembering “Higher Trails”, a great Kiwi song

Graeme Hill played “Higher Trails”, by John Hanlon today and will be speaking to him tomorrow (Sun 30 Aug) on Radio Live. I associate it with the New Zealand documentary “Off the Edge” which was released in 1976. That means I was only ten but the tune, lyrics and epic visuals of hang gliders spiralling around the Southern Alps were permanently etched in my memory.

It still looks amazing especially when you consider it was shot on film (no mini-digital video then) with limited resources/support. I’d love to buy this on DVD, but not sure if was ever released, and think It was a crime John was completely overlooked when the APRA top 100 New Zealand songs was compiled.

In my head

When I first visited Aoraki Mt Cook, on the Adventure South 2004 cycle trip, “Higher Trails” was the soundtrack running in my head. I can’t remember but suspect it inspired this photo.

Damn the Dam

Another song of John’s became an anthem for one of New Zealand’s biggest conservation battles which spanned the 60s and early 70s. “Damn the Dam” [cried the fantail] was adopted by the campaign against the Manapouri Hydro Dam scheme. The government planned a dam to raise the level of Lake Manapouri (below) 30 metres, merging it with nearby Lake Te Anau, to provide power to an aluminium smelter.

That would have flooded a vast area of pristine bush including this fantails home (below). In the end Norm Kirk’s Labour Government imposed lake level restrictions and a modified scheme saving much of this habitat. Although I was a child at the time it’s impossible to visit Manapouri and without remembering “Damn the Dam” and the work of the conservationist that saved it.

I found “Damn the Dam” on YouTube, although this isn’t the original video. Sadly it appears we may need John Hanlon to write a new conservation anthem, thanks to Gerry Brownlee.

The empty Otago Rail Trail is pretty busy!

I think it's great that the New Zealand Cycleway Project is going ahead with National and the Greens support. What amazed me, although have probably read it elsewhere & forgotten, is that 80,000 rode the Central Otago Rail Trail last year.

I thought it was a pretty remote (both pretty and remote) empty place although it was quite late in the season when we did it!

Greens Join Cycleway Project

It's like cycling naked without it...

If anyone looked at the current banner, or full image below, they may wonder about the strange looking fellow with even stranger attire. I call the white thing by my glasses "The Bas" as purchased it from "Bas the guide" on an Adventure South West Coast trip. Since then it's become an essential cycling accessory.

It's not just a rear view mirror, it's the best cycle rear view mirror I've ever used. Sturdy all metal construction and spectacle mount means there is no vibration. It's also easy to adjust and far less likely to be damaged than a helmet or bar mount mirror. The mirror isn't that big, so doesn't dominate forward view but moving your head slightly scans the road behind better than any fixed mirror.

You may wonder why this excitement over a bit of wire and acrylic mirror but on several occasions this thing has literally saved my life. In both cases I was on a busy road, keeping left, and watched large trucks graze by, one eye on the curb the other in the mirror, within centimetres of my shoulder. I suspect in one case it was just ignorance, the other because they were squeezed by traffic in the lane beside them. I'm pretty certain in both cases a normal glance behind would have meant a real possibility of going under the wheels. Having the mirror allowed me to see what was happening, do what I could to avoid it and stay on the bike.

If you're in New Zealand the only place I've seen them sold is Adventure South and theirs are tweaked for New Zealand's Left Hand Drive/Cycling; which is why mine is upside down in the San Francisco shot. Those overseas should search for a "Bicycle Peddler of Greeley Colorado Take A Look Mirror".

For me, cycling without it would be like cycling naked. As for the rest of the attire, I'll let Karl du Fresne defend that!

Karl du Fresne: In defence of lycra and other unspeakable cycling clobber
Being a cyclist myself, I naturally bridled at this. But it’s not the first time I’ve heard a non-cyclist ridicule the strange outfits bike riders wear, so I’ve taken it upon myself to offer some sort of explanation....

A Porsche 911 Carrera S Cabriolet in the Catlins?

I was reading CAR U.K. and thought this Porsche advert looked familiar. Could it be the Catlins, Southland, New Zealand as seen in this photo I took in 2005. Compare the hills and fore shore, seems familiar? It wouldn't be the first time my Adventure South travels and Porsche adverts have coincided.

 

911 Carrera S Cabriolet - 911 Overview - Models - Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG

Top Gear in Vietnam?

Having recently been there, this episode looks like it will be fascinating. Come on Prime, don't make me wait forever or find an alternate source to view it!

AUSmotive.com » More on Top Gear in Vietnam

Vietnam Cycle Tour 2008 with Adventure South

Since 2003, about this time of year, I’ve headed south to join a cycle tour with Adventure South. This meant meeting up with a group of cyclists, most not Kiwis, for a leisurely ride between sumptuous meals . Since 2005 they’ve been “Returning Clients Trips” which meant meeting some friends from previous trips or other returning clients for the first time. Last year we got to the end of the Otago Rail Trail After and realised we’d basically run out of South Island!

That’s why from mid-April onwards I’ll be on a bike, plane, junk or boat somewhere between these places in Vietnam! It’s another Adventure South Returning Clients Trip with people coming from Australia, America, Japan & New Zealand. The plan follows, details in the extended post.

Mekong Delta Bicycle Tour & Northern Excursion 2008

Benmore and Otematata, today and yesterday - TVNZ ondemand connects two generations

Part of a recent cycle tour involved an overnight stay at Otematata and lap of Lake Aviemore (over Benmore Dam). Most on the trip, even me the “token Kiwi”,  were puzzled why there’s a 60 room hotel and little else at Otematata. Then it clicked that this was the project town for the Benmore Dam construction. Today apart from the impressive dams, lakes and that hotel there is little evidence that about 40 years ago over 4,500, including some of my relatives*, lived and worked there. As you can see from the photos what remains is beautiful.

On returning home I was looking at the recently launched TVNZ ondemand. This is TVNZ’s Internet based channel with shows for download. Some require subscription but there is lots of free content including content from the NZBC/TVNZ archives. The site is nicely done and with a reasonable broadband connection you get good quality video.

In the “Classic” section I spied a feature about Benmore from the series “These New Zealanders” . It was filmed in 1964 and shows Otematata in the middle of the construction period. Having just been there I was interested to see the footage of the valley before construction, the work that was done and how Otematata looked in very different times. Even without the local interest it’s worth a look to see how much both New Zealand and TV has changed;

• Selwyn “It’s in the bag” Toogood speaking best “BBC Kiw’english”. –  Wasn’t till probably the 70’s until you heard the natural Kiwi accent on TV.
• A construction worker rolls & smokes a cigarette while being interviewed, probably in his “smoko” break. – In todays smokefree world it’s strange to see.
• The Voxpop question responses which probably weren’t those they expected, but still didn’t get cut. – Asking the local: “Is Otematata a good place to bring up children?”, “No”
• They show quite small children boxing!  –  While we were there all the news was about the “Anti-Smacking Bill”.

View “These New Zealanders” Benmore at TVNZ ondemand (* look for a brief appearance by “Mrs Muirhead” at about 08:30)

UPDATE 27–03–2007: Only after reading the fine print did I find that these videos will only work within New Zealand. Pity as know many OE Kiwi’s who’d like to see them including “Mrs Muirhead”!

Back from "the Maniototo"

RobiNZ CAD Blog: Shutdown Week ends, back from "the Maniototo"
Shutdown week is over. It was a brilliant week of cycling in the South Island, mainly an area known as “the Maniototo". It’s a remote part of Central Otago which is hardly crowded itself…

View all my Otago Traverse Cycle Tour Photos

The time has come to shutdown...

 RobiNZ CAD Blog: The time has come to shutdown...
I’m not going to participate in the March 24th Shutdown Day as I’m going further and having a Shutdown Week!
I will be cycling in the South Island with Adventure South. The blue dashed line on the map below shows the proposed route…

Ginny's Kiwi Adventure Blog

I met Ginny on my first Adventure South (Island) cycle trip. It’s not uncommon for Adventure South’ers to return – I’ve just booked my 5th trip for March 2007 – and Ginny did, it was the first of several visits to New Zealand as a cycle, climbing, hiking tourist and triathlon competitor. Now she is back again, this time to live!

I know it was a shock coming from Californian summer to Christchurch winter (a balmy 2ºc) but that’s just the start of this Kiwi Adventure. Of course you can’t have Kiwi adventure without having a Kiwi Adventure Blog to share your experiences with friends, family & the interweb so here it is;

Ginny's Kiwi Adventures
My new life in New Zealand - for the edification and entertainment of my friends and family who aren't lucky enough to be heading off to New Zealand to live…

Colosseum in Rome, India's Taj Mahal, Dunedin Railway Station?

Well, it’s a great place to hop on-board the wonderful Taieri Gorge train but up there with the Colosseum & Taj Mahal?

I went to have a look at the station last year and the train was about to leave, seemed like a good way to spend the afternoon so jumped on-board. Dunedin was cold & grey but the weather was lovely in the gorge so it was a wise, lucky, choice. Perhaps the station deserved a closer look as doubt you’d dash thru the Colosseum & Taj Mahal just to get a train!

I’ll be back there next year as both are part of the Adventure South tour in March.

Otago news on Stuff.co.nz: Dunedin station ranked one of 'wonders of the world'
Dunedin's ornate railway station has been ranked among the world's "200 must-see places" by a leading travel guide. According to DK Eyewitness Travel, the Dunedin Railway Station is up there with the Colosseum in Rome and India's Taj Mahal as one of the wonders of the world….

Dunedin Railway Station Centenary

The Taieri Gorge Limited Tourist Train

Adventure South?

Why the new category: “Adventure South”?

All posts in this category are related to trips I’ve done with a New Zealand adventure/cycle tour company: Adventure South. They operate mainly in the New Zealand’s South Island but also offers some tours which venture into the North Island. Over the years I’ve had a quite a few people contact me after finding trip photos & related posts on my blog to ask more about the trips. I decided to collate them all with a special category and post this Q&A here based on the things I’ve been asked. This is an unsolicited story of how I found Adventure South and why I continue to go back.

• Note:
  • This info is based on my experiences and relates to the trips I’ve done at the time I did them.
  • For current information refer to the company website: www.advsouth.co.nz/
  • The images are mine, all taken during trips, not copied from a brochure!
• Disclosure: I knew literally nobody on my first trip but since then have kept in contact with both staff and clients who have become friends. It’s not uncommon to see familiar faces making return visits turning many trips into mini-reunions, surely a recommendation in itself.

(Click the thumbnail for the full image, location & details)

Porsche 997 Targa 4 in Tekapo, New Zealand

I saw the promotional photos for the new Porsche 997 Targa 4 and recognised the view…

See the website http://www.porsche.com/all/skydriving/usa.aspx

(Found via) Article and more photos at www.eurocarblog.com

My photo from Mount John during an Adventure South Cycle trip

Porsche on Mount John

Edited 24–07–2006: It’s Mt. John, not Mt. St. John as I first thought

On my bike in the South Island, well someone else's bike actually!

The “Northern Solstice” trip is Adventure South’s finale for the year. I guess “Northern” as covers the northern part of the South Island but not sure about the “Solstice” when it’s happening in April. I hope it’s to help rustle up some summer solstice weather in late Autumn!

The route is from Christchurch to West Coast, Abel Tasman, Nelson, Picton, Kaikoura & back to Christchurch. There are few “bumps” in that route including the Southern Alps (approx. route image) but not all of the 1000km is cycling (thankfully).

It's comfortable cycle touring supported by bus, staying in Motels/Lodges.  In the notes you may notice the occasional mention of restaurants, wineries, lunches, wines tastings and between them there are frequent stops help ward off starvation

Add a great bunch of people, awesome guides and you have the recipe for great fun. I only hope it doesn’t snow…

This will be my fourth trip with Adventure South and will complete nearly all the South Island. I’ve driven parts of this route in 2004 on the way south to join another Adventure South adventure, The West Coast Escape, but the section of the coast up to Westport will be all new to me.

Some extracts from the trip notes:

• Sun. April 2 – Christchurch > Greymouth
  • Board the Tranz Alpine express train in Christchurch, heading up into the foothills and into the Southern Alps.
  • At Arthurs Pass for the bold we have a stunning descent via the Aqueduct [hope they mean viaduct or perhaps expecting lots of rain!) and the upper gorge road to Jacksons and inland to Lake Brunner.
  • The ride out of Lake Brunner and down to Greymouth beside the Grey River - is a must!
• Mon. April 3 – Greymouth > Punakaiki
  • This day just has to be one of the best coastal rides in the country - well at least according to Bas and we know he wouldn't fib! It’s possible to wax lyrical but we will let the ride do the talking! Suffice to say that over the entire 50kms we haven't found a bad section yet.
  • Arrive into Punakaiki early and just hang out with some great local walks.
• Tues. April 4 – Punakaiki > Westport
  • But wait - there's more. Onwards with the coastal ride heading to Westport this time. This day has a few uphills and we will warn you about any serious grinds.
  • For the strong rider the 60 kms will pass fine and again we have time to explore the dramatic Cape Foulwind before heading to probably the best restaurant location in NZ for tonight's meal.
• Wed. April 5 – Westport > Nelson
  • The Buller River rises up in the Nelson Lakes and flows out to the sea at Westport. Today we have three awesome rides that take us up the Buller river and over into the Nelson Plains.
  • Two rides are magnificent backcountry rides that Bas has hunted out and combine these with the beautiful wineries that surround the city of Nelson - as well as its many arts and crafts shops.
• Thurs. April 6 – Abel Tasman/Nelson (Kayak, No biking)
  • The nearby Abel Tasman national park is a gem and by now the crowds have gone leaving us some beautiful beaches to explore.
  • As a special we walk into the Torrent Bay/Ancorage area with the many golden sandy beaches below, to then meet our yacht for an amazing sailing experience.
  • Anyone who might want to try their hand at some sea kayaking, we offer an optional sea kayaking trip!
  • Another night at Nelson is no hardship and the day away from the bike an enjoyable interlude.
• Fri. April 7 – Nelson > Kaikoura 
  • Nearby are the wineries of Blenheim as well as the coastal Queens Charlotte drive. The coach trip across to Havelock is beautiful and at the look out we set up for the 37 kms ride through to Picton.
  • Once there its a short drive over to St Clair winery and a lengthy lunch and tasting. Finally under the command from Bas its onwards and then a beautiful coastal ride as we travel southward to Kaikoura where we stay for the night.
• Sat. April 8 – Kaikoura > Christchurch
  • I’m doing the famous Whale watch at Kaikoura
  • Then its southwards, heading to Christchurch with a final great ride and a farewell meal on the outskirts of Christchurch. Sleep the sleep of the just tonight.

Cycle Trip Quick Update

This is a quick update, will do proper posts when home. excuse the typo's racing the meter on a kiosk machine

After a day in Dunedin joined the group. There are 8 cyclists + the two guides on this trip. It's a special only advertised to previous Adventure South clients so all have done previous trips - most two or three, but one has done eight!

Day One(Sun 10): We headed out  of Dunedin along the peninsular to the albatross colony. Perfect weather but a little cool when out of the sun & not riding. We saw Albatross - adult, juvenile and chicks. Some flying and even a feeding so had a great time. Apparently lucky to see all this as some see nothing. Then did a trip on Argo 8 wheel drive buggies - very cool - to see seal and penguin colonies. Accommodation and a gourmet dinner that night was at Larnoch Castle - really nice.

Day Two(Mon 11): Set off from the castle along the Dunedin coast till morning tea then a drive to just past Balclutha. Road the coast to heading into the Catlin's district. A bit of a drive then more cycling along empty roads with stunning coastal scenery. That night stayed in the Catlin's with a nice meal at the only place in town!

Day Three (Tue 12); A  short coastal walk took us to a beach with 11 sea lions, able to get close enough for a really good look but not too close! The cycling was great and after lunch by gourmet chef guide Bas we rode into the afternoon. By this time the weather had started to get rough as a southwest front rolled in but we were off the bikes by that time. Curio Bay was swept with gale force winds and rain but it was off to Invercargill by bus for us by that stage. Dinner was stunning, 1/2 dozen Bluff Oysters and a huge rare fillet steak so tender it melted in the mouth. It was a rough night as the gale blew and cold (6 deg c)

Day Four (wed13): Bused from Invercargill to Riverton then rode most the way to c. The coast was rough as it was still windy but for us a side/tailwind so OK. From Tuatapere on the land is mostly flat and managed avg speeds of about 28km/h. A great ride but ran out of time to get all the way to Manapouri. After a late lunch there rode to Te Anau which is where we stay. Tomorrow is a short hike and then on the boat to Doubtful Sound for the night.

Holiday - Not just from blogging

Things will be quiet here for a couple of weeks as I’m heading of on another Cycling tour with Adventure South. This time its to “The Catlins” which is the southern coast of New Zealand’s South Island.

I just hope it doesn’t snow

Tumonz Mapping & Cycle Touring

As an example of how TUMONZ can help with planning or recording cycle tours I have mapped a ride I did on both trips with Adventure South.
This is "The Crown Range Road", the highest main road in New Zealand. Its a challenging climb that includes a steep "zigzag" thats fun going either up or down!
I did this in the 2003 Milford Wilderness trip (Cadrona to Arrowtown)and the other way (Arrowtown to Cadrona) on the first day of the 2004 West Coast Escape.
To map in TUMONZ I selected the start & finish point and it found the route. As seen in the Route Dialog this is 30.2 km by road, approx 1.6 hours if done at an average touring speed of 18km/h. You can input any speed to get average travel times.

I used the new "Line Height Profile" tool to inspect the true elevation of any point on that route or any other marked line. The road route is indicated in the map as a magenta line. You can see that the peak (cursor location highlighted by yellow circle) is 1078m high and is 16km from the start of the ride.

Fantastic information that you can get for anywhere in New Zealand. Just plot a route or draw a map line and TUMONZ allows you to run the cursor along the track/line displaying distance & height. You can also get a 3d view as seen in at the start of this article. It may have been better not to know about this hill but at least with TUMONZ you get no nasty surprises!
All map image/data produced using TUMONZ - The Ultimate Map of New Zealand.

Cycle Tours with Adventure South

If you like cycling, hiking, eating, and want a fantastic way to see the South Island of New Zealand this is the company for you.
I have done two trips (Milford Wilderness & West Coast Escape) with them and will be going back for more!

See the photos of my trips in the Travel 2003 & 2004 Photo Albums on this site or Click to go to Adventure South New Zealand: Bicycle Tours, Walking Tours, & Adventure Travel

UPDATE 15 August, 2005: I have completed another trip with Adventure South in March 2005 and just booked another in April 2006!

UPDATE 06-07-2006: Just booked trip number five,  which departs March 2007, see a trend here?

2003 Photo Album Finished

What a holiday! It started with an Americas Cup Final race in Auckland.
Then down to the South Island for an Adventure South Milford Wilderness Cycle tour. Ten days with a great bunch of people and perfect weather (thanks Merve!).
Then across the Tasman for the 2003 Melbourne Grand Prix!
I doubt that combination could be achieved again!
Have a look at the album: Travel 2003 (South Island & Melbourne)

2004 Photo Album Finished

Two Weeks touring the South Island of New Zealand in the mighty Fiat Uno :-) followed by a West Coast Escape Bike Tour. A total of 5600km driving and about 300km cycling!
Have a look at Travel 2004 (South Island New Zealand)